Sewing-machine



e. s. HILL. SEWING'MACHiNE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.28| I916.

Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

3 SHEETSSHEET I- fivm" W833 j G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION mm Aue.2a. ms.

1 352, 5 1 4. Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Wes-9 4 E MM G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPUCATION min AUG.28. 191s.

Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

a SHEETS-SHEEI a.

Irvfaaa M i W UMTE'ZD STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GEORGE s. HILL, or s'rnAE oEn, NEW nAMPsmRE, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY. I

SEWING-MACHINE.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE S. HILL, a citizen of the United States, residing at bitraiford, in the county of Strailord and State of New Hampshire, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-lvlachines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to thread holding and severing mechanism for sewin ma chines.

The object of the invention is to provide novel and improved thread severing and holding means which will operate in a uniformly reliable manner to sever the standing needle thread close to the work, and which is well adapted for use in buttonhole sewing machines in which a work clamp and the sewing mechanism are relatively actuated to form overseam stitches along the sides and about the end or ends of the buttonhole.

To these ends the invention consists in the features of construction and combinations of parts hereinafter described and referred to in the claims, the advantages of which will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description of the mechanism illustrated in the drawings, which embodies the invention in its preferred form. i

In the drawings, Figure l is a sectional elevation showing so much of a buttonhole sewing machine as is necessary to illustrate the application of the present invention thereto. Fig. 2 is a side elevation partly in section of the thread severing and holding mechanism, the parts being shown in the same position which is illustrated in Fig. I. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 2. Figs. l and 5 are detail plan views showing the thread severing and holding members in different positions, and Figs. 6, 7 and 8 are detail views showing the mode of operation of the mechanism.

In the drawings the invention is shown as embodied in a buttonhole sewingmachine having the construction and mode of opera tion of the machine shown and described in Patent No. 1,063,880, dated June 3, 1918. In this machine the stitch forming mecha- Specification of Letters Patent. Patented S t 14 1q20 Application filed August 28, 1916.

Serial No. 117,242.

nism comprises an upper needle 2 eccentrically mounted in a vertically reciprocating needle bar 4, and under needle 6, and a looper 8. The upper needle bar is mounted in a rotary head or carrier 10. The under needle and looper are mounted in a rotar turret 12 which is rotated in unison with the head 10. The work is held by clamps l4 pivotally mounted on the work supporting plates 16, which are in turn mounted on a clamp carrier 18. The clamp carrier is moved lengthwise of the buttonhole to bring the work into register with the cutter or with the sewing mechanism and to feed the work during the sewing by a cam groove formed in the cam gear 20 which makes one (revolution for each cycle of the machine. The clamp carrier is moved laterally and the stitch forming mechanism is rotated during the sewing through suitable connections from a gear 22 which makes one revolution during the sewing of a buttonhole. The cutter 24 is operated from a cam on the cam gear, and when operated to cut a buttonhole, also acts to close the clamps. The clamps are held closed during the sewing by latching devices, and are released during the return 01? the cutter carriage to cutting position, as fully described in the patent above referred to. At the completion of the sewing of a buttonhole the stitch forming mechanism is stopped with the upper and under needles in their retracted positions, and with the upper needle thread about the looper, as indicated in Fig. 1.

At the completion of the sewing the needle thread is severed close to the work and without materially deflecting it by thread severing and holding members which are normally in retracted position away from the needle path and, which are advanced to bring them close to and on opposite sides of the needle path and then retracted to sever and grip the thread and carry the severed of two bars 26 and 28 which are mounted to slide in guide way in the support 30. The support is carrried on the lower end of a slide 32 which is guided in a bracket secured to the head of the machine. The slide is forced downward by a spring 36 which tends to hold the head of a screw carried by the slide in engagement with the lower end of a slot in the bracket T he forward and return movements of the bar 26 are etl ectcd and controled by cams lt) and 4&2 secured to the gear 26 and arranged to engage one arm or lever 4d the other arm of which is connected by a link 46 with a cylindrical block 4-8 on the rear end of the bar. A spring 50 interposed between the rear end of the support 30 and the forward end of the linlr i6 tends to retain the bar 26 in its retracted position which is determined by the engagement of stop screw 52 on the lever i lwith a fixed stop 5 The bar 28 is caused to advance with the bar 26 when permitted to no so by spring interposed between the rear end of the bar and the block 4:8. The bar 28 is causedto move back with the bar AG by a lug 58 on the bar 28 which plays in a slot (30 in the side of the bar 28. The slot permits the bar 26 to ad ance independently oi the bar 28 when forward movement oil the bar'QS is arrested for the purpose of separating the thread gripping and severing members to embrace the standin thread hr to release the hold end as will be hereinafter explained. The movement of the bar with the bar 26 is interrupted at certain times by a spring rcssed latching pin 62 arranged to ride on ie top of bar 528 and to enter notches 64 in .ie bar.

@ne of the thread holding andv severing members consists of a thread engaging ger 66 proje'z'tinp' laterally from the to. ward end of the bar 28. The is arranged to pass over the end oi: the 28 the upper edge of which forms a r ting member cooperating; with the lower .lgge of the finger in severing the threa The finger is also a ranged to pass under the end of a flat spring; plate 68 which is secured to the bar 28 and which forms a thread holding member cooperating; with the upper snrtace of the linger in holding; the end or" the needle thread. The spring plate 68 has a. lateral projertion 70 overlying the bar 26 and actto press the thin end portion of the bar down onto the end of the bar 953 which also has a laterally projecting portion '52 at its forward end and underlying; the end of the bar 26. The end of the bar .36 just ot the finger G6 is somewhat thicker than the finger 66 and forms cam for raisins the end of the spring plate 68 when the p is moved forward from under the plate to open the thread holding members and tor :r 526 into line with the allowing the spring plate to close upon the thread as it is carried under the plate by the retraction of the linger.

During the sewing ot' the major part of the buttonhole the thread severingand holding members are held in losed and re tracted position corresponding to the position indicated in F T. When in this position they are bacl: away irom the needle path and above the work clamp where they will not interfere with the proper operation of the sewing mechanism and clamp. As the sewing of the buttonhole is completed or is about to be completed the bar 26 is advanced by the cam l0. During the first part of this movement the bar 28 will move w'th the bar 26 until the pin 62 enters the forward notch G l when the forward movementot the bar 28 will be interrupted. hen the lug 58 on the bar 25 engages the forward end of the slot 0 in the bar 23, the bar 28 will he moved forward disengaging; the notch from the pin so that the spring 56 will immediately advance the bar 28 with relation to the bar 26 until the rear end of the slot engages the lug 58. Thereafter the two bars will move forward to gether until a stop pin 7% on the bar 28 engages the rear end of support 30 and interrupts the forward movement of the bar 28. This occurs when the forward end of the bar 28 and the end oi the spring plate (38 are close to the path of the needle in making its final stroke. The bar 28 is latched in this position by engagement of the pin 62 with the rear notch 64:. After the movement of the bar 28 is arrested, the

continued movement of the bar .4) advances the thread finger 66 across the needle path. thus opening the thread holdingmembers and bringing;- them 'on opposite sides of the needle path or standing thread as indicated in Figs. 1, 2 and mechanism has stopped, the lever er rides off of the cam L0 and the bar 96 is retracted by the action of the spring 50. During the first part of the movement of the bar 26.. the thread engagement linger 66 engages the standing thread close to the upper surface of the worlr and carries it under the end of the spring plate (38, the lower ends of the finger cooperating with the end of the bar 28 to sever the thread. the

thread engaging finger moves under the L spring plate, the pro ection 70 on the plate After the sewing:

During the continued ba-fkward position indicated in Fig. 7. When in this position the thread holding members hold the end of the thread leading to the needle in such position that the waste end of the thread at the beginning of the succeeding buttonhole will be covered by the overseam stitches. While the initial stitches at the beginning of the succeeding buttonhole are being sewn the cam 42 acts to partially advance the bar 26. During this movement the latchpin 62 enters the forward notch in the bar 28 and arrests the forward move ment of this bar so that the bar 26 moves forward independently of the bar 28 to open the thread holding members and release the end of the thread. The parts then return to their normal position where they remain until the completion of the buttonhole when they are again 0 aerated to sever and grip the standing thread and carry the severed end of the needle thread back and away from the needle path.

By the above construction the thread may be severed comparatively close to the work without materially deflecting it betweeiii the last needle hole and the eye of the needle, and the thread holding devices may then be retracted to a position where they will not interfere with the subsequent operation of the sewing and work feeding mechanism, and where if desired they may present the waste end of the thread in the position to be covered by the stitches at the beginning of the next buttonhole. It is preferred to so arrange the supporting guide plate for the thread holding and severing members that these members will move in an inclined direction toward and away from the needle path, since by this arrangement the thread may be severed closer to the work when arranged to move back and forth over the work clamp.

While it is preferred to employ the specific construction and arrangement of parts shown and described in embodying the invention in the machine of the patentabove referred to, it will be understood that this construction and arrangement is not essential to the broader features of the invention, and may be varied and modified as found desirable or best suited to the machine in which it is to be incorporated.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described the form of mechanism in which it may be embodied, what is claimed is 1. A sewing machine having in combination stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a support provided with a guideway, thread holding members movable in the guideway toward and away from the needle path, mechanism for simultaneously advancing the members to bring them close to the needle path, and for continuing the advance of one member independently of the other to bring them on opposite sides of the needle path, and for re tracting the members to grip the thread and then carry it away from the neeole path, and means for severing the thread while the holding members are close to the needie path and prior to their final retraction to holding position.

2. A sewing machine having in combina-, tion stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a support provided with a guideway, bars mounted to slide in the guideway, cooperating thread holding members at the forward ends of the bars, mechanism for simultaneously advancing the bars to bring the members closeto the nedle path, for continuing the advance of one of the bars independently of the other to carry its thread holding member beyond the needle path and for retracting the bars, to grip and sever the thread and then carry it away from the needle path.

3. A sewing machine having in co1nbination stitch forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, a work clamp, mechanism for relatively actuaing the clamp and stitch forming mechanism to sew about a buttonhole, two bars mounted to reciprocate over the clamp toward and away from the needle path, thread holding and severing devices carried at the forward ends of the bars, and mechanism for reciprocating the bars and giving one a limited independent advance and return movement.

4. A sewing machine having in combination stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a reciprocating bar having a laterally projecting thread engaging finger at its forward end, cooperating thread holding and severing members mounted to reciprocate with the bar, and means for arresting the forward movement of the cooperating members before the bar completes its forward movement.

5. A sewing machine having in combination stitchforming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, sliding bars mounted for movement toward and from the needle path, thread severing and holding members carried at the forward ends of the bars, connections between the bars permitting limited independent movement of one of the bars in each direction, and mechanism for reciproeating the latter bar.

6. A-sewing machine having in combination stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, two sliding bars mounted for movement toward and from the needle path, thread severing and holding members carried at the forward ends of the bars, connections between the bars permitting limited independent advance and return movement of one of the bars to open and close the thread holding and cutting ers when in advanced posi I- t '1 le' iibl the l members at the forward ends of the bars,

connections hetw 1 the bars or causing them to move together and permitting li1n itcd independent advance and return movement o one of the bars, mechanism for reciorocating the latter bar, and a spring latch r interruptnig the movement of the other bar.

hi. it sewing machine having in combination stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a reciprocating bar having a laterally projecting thread engaging finger at its forward end, a second bar nioni i to reciprocate with the first, thread holding and cutting members at the forward end of the second bar, a yielding connection between the bars for causing the second bar to advance with the first bar and means for advancing and retracting the first bar and arresting the forward movement of the second bar before the first bar completes its forward movemen 9. A sewing machine having in combination stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a bar mounted for inoven'lent toward and away from the needle path, and having a laterally projecting hread engaging finger at its forward end, a 'ing piate under which the finger carries 1c thread, and a cam surface on the bar for rising and lowering the plate.

10. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, sliding bars mounted for movement toward and from the needle path, thread severing and holding devices carried at the forward ends of the bars, and mechanism for advancing and retracting the bars together and for giving one a limited independent movement in one direction to open the holding devices and in the other direction to actuate the holding and severing devices to sever and grip the thread.

GEORGE S. HILL. 

